MOUNT ALPAMAYO (5.947 m)
Mount Alpamayo, catalogued as the most beautiful mountain in the world for its peculiar pyramidal aspect, won a photography contest in the world survey of scenic beauty held in Munich – Germany, in 1966.
Alpamayo, with a height of 5,947 meters above sea level belongs to the beautiful Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes and is part of the Nevado Santa Cruz massif, therefore it is the most attractive for professional climbers who want to climb it year after year. In spite of not being a 6000 like the mountains that surround it (Santa Cruz, Pucajirkas and Quitaraju), it is one of the most climbed during the season due to the spectacular photographs that are captured in the sunset from its high camp and during its ascent. Undoubtedly, it is a challenge that makes many people dream and sigh.
The route that is climbed every season is called the Basque-French route, erroneously many climbers and guides know it as the French direct route. This route presents a Difficult difficulty level, it has between 450 to 500m of climbing, starting with 60º and reaching 85º degrees of inclination during the climb. Depending on the conditions of the mountain, even in season, it may be impassable to reach the summit.
Technical Data
Max. Altitude: |
5947 masl – Summit Alpamayo |
Duration: |
7 days / 6 nights |
Physical Difficulty: |
Demanding |
Technical Difficulty: |
Demanding |
Season: |
May – August |
Location: |
Cordillera Blanca |
Average temperature: |
Between 13 °C – 23 °C during the day / night -05 °C to -30 °C. |
ITINERARY
HUARAZ – CARAZ – CASHAPAMPA – CAMPING LLAMACORRAL (3760m)
Our expedition starts in the city of Huaraz. The team designated by Andean Raju Expeditions for your expedition will go to your respective hotel to pick you up with private transportation. After the pick up we head north through the Callejon de Huaylas to Caraz and then continue to the town of Cashapampa, where we will begin the siege of the mountain and where the muleteers and donkeys are waiting to help us with the transfer of logistical equipment for camping. After approximately 4 hours of walking through the valley of Santa Cruz we will arrive to our first day of camping in Llamacorral, from here we will be able to appreciate a beautiful sunset on the Nevado Taulliraju, known in the world of mountaineering as the cathedral of the world.
- Lodging: Mountain tents
- Meals: Box lunch, lunch and dinner
- Transfer by car: 3 hours
- Hiking time: 4 to 5 hours approximately
- Difference in altitude: from 3100 masl to 3760 masl (+660)
LLAMACORRAL – BASE CAMP ALPAMAYO
On our second day of expedition, we will begin our journey in the early hours of the morning. After breakfast and personal hygiene we will begin our approach to the base camp of Alapamayo. Our hike continues through the valley of Santa Cruz, we will be surrounded by a varied flora and fauna, we will surround the turquoise lagoon Hatuncocha (big lagoon) and we will have views of the Huandoy, Caraz, Quitaraju, Taulliraju and Artesonraju snow-capped peaks. Before reaching the Quebrada de Arhuaycocha we will see a marked contrast between the sandy plain and the vegetation of the place. At the intersection of the Quebradas Arhuaycocha and Santa Cruz we will enjoy a delicious lunch and a well-deserved rest.
We enter through the Quedrada de Arhuaycocha, the first stretch is a slightly steep slope, we will climb in zigzag until we reach the viewpoint of Nevado Artesonraju and we will pause to photograph the silhouette of this mythical mountain known as the Paramount Picture. We continue on a flat road until we reach our second day of camping. Finally, when our dinner time arrives, we will eat and rest to continue with the next day’s journey.
- Lodging: Mountain tents
- Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch and dinner.
- Hiking time: 4 to 5 hours approximately
- Elevation gain: from 3760 masl to 4300 masl (+540)
ALPAMAYO BASE CAMP – MORAINE CAMP
This day after breakfast we dismantle the camp, pack our things and all the mountain equipment for the porters to take care of the transfer. We begin to climb for approximately 3 hours on a rocky path until we reach the Moraine Camp, where we will enjoy splendid views of the mountains Artesonraju (6025), Paria (5519), Pucajirca (6046).
- Lodging: Mountain tents
- Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch and dinner.
- Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours approximately
- Elevation gain: from 4300 masl to 4600 masl (+300)
CAMPO MORRENA – CAMPO ALTO ALPAMAYO
This day is important to get us closer to our goal. We start the day very early. After breakfast, personal hygiene and loading of our personal equipment we will begin our approach to the high camp of Alpamayo. The porters are responsible for the transfer of the camping equipment.
We continue with our itinerary through rocky sections until we reach the glacier. At this point we will equip ourselves with the necessary: harness, hiking boots, helmet, crampons and an ice axe. The guides will be responsible for the roping to arrive safely to our camp. After a traverse across the glacier, we will reach a small climbing wall that will lead us to the high camp.
During the sunset you will be able to enjoy splendid views of the sunset, which in turn will be reflected in the Alpamayo climbing wall.
Finally, when our dinner time arrives, we will eat and rest to continue with the next day’s journey.
- Lodging: Mountain tents
- Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch and dinner.
- Hiking time: 3 to 4 hours approximately
- Elevation gain: from 4600 masl to 5400 masl (+800)
CAMPO ALTO – CUMBRE ALPAMAYO (5497m) – CAMPO ALTO
The most awaited day has arrived, our ascent to the summit. We start the day at midnight, after breakfast the guide will rope us up and inspect everything necessary for the ascent. We start the departure, we make a traverse to the base of the wall, we enter the climbing channel that begins with 60º, the snow conditions are excellent, and the physical and psychological issue are crucial for the fulfillment of your goal. Depending on the conditions of the mountain, the guide will look for the best route. After approximately 8 hours of constant climbing, we will reach the summit. From this point you will be able to appreciate in its maximum splendor the Cordillera Blanca mountain range, a 360º view of the most emblematic mountains of Peru: Huandoy, Chopicalqui, Huascaran, Quitaraju, Santa Cruz, Pucajirkas, Rinrijirca, Paron, Caraz, Aguja, Pyramid.
We remain at the summit for a prudent time to rest, hydrate and take pictures. Finally we make the descent rappels by the same route of ascent, we arrive at our camp, we eat and rest.
Depending on the physical condition of the client and previous coordination with the guide and support team, we can go down the same day to Base Camp.
- Lodging: Mountain tents
- Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch and dinner.
- Duration of the climbing day: 8 hours approximately and descent 3 hours.
- Elevation gain: from 5400 masl to 5947 masl (+547)
CAMPO ALTO – CAMPO BASE
This day, after breakfast, we begin our descent to base camp. We make a couple of rappels and continue with the crossing until we reach the moraine and we unclimb, we keep in our backpack the equipment used and continue our descent until we reach the camp. Our cook awaits us with a delicious lunch to replenish energy and rest satisfied with the feat achieved.
- Lodging: Mountain tents
- Meals: Breakfast, box lunch, lunch and dinner.
- Descent time: 4 to 5 hours approximately
- Elevation gain: from 4300 masl to 3760 masl (-540)
CAMPO BASE – CASHAPAMPA – CARAZ – HUARAZ
The end of our expedition has arrived. After breakfast we dismantle the camp for the descent, the muleteer and the donkeys will be ready to transport all the logistic equipment to the town of Cashapampa. We head downhill through the Quebrada de Santa Cruz.
- Type of lodging: Mountain tents
- Meals: Breakfast
- Hiking time: 5 hours approximately
- Transfer by car: 3 hours back to Huaraz
Our Service Includes
- Private transportation
- Certified cook
- 4 meals per day (breakfast, lunch, box lunch and dinner).
- Horseman and donkeys for the transportation of the logistic camping equipment.
- Porters for the transportation of the logistic camping equipment.
- Personal climbing equipment (harness, helmet and crampons).
- 4-season double occupancy tent
- Dining, cooking and toilet tent to base camp.
- Cooking utensils and complete dining room.
- First aid kit.
- Boiled water to fill your bottle every day.
- Tips to get to Huaraz.
Our Service Does Not Include
- Air ticket to Lima and to the country of origin.
- Entrance ticket to Huascaran National Park (50 USD p/p).
- Personal climbing equipment (hiking boots and technical ice axes).
- Personal porters.
- Accident and rescue insurance.
- Travel luggage and trip cancellation insurance.
- Personal expenses.
- Meals not mentioned in the itinerary
- Hotel.
- Costs generated by the abandonment of the expedition.
- Sleeping and insulating mattress.
- Extra days in hotels in case of early arrivals out of schedule.
- Meals and drinks not mentioned in the itinerary.
- Transfers out of schedule to Huaraz, in case of premature abandonment of the expedition.
We Recommend to Bring
- Trekking Pants.
- Trekking Shoes.
- Trekking Socks (synthetic fibers).
- Hat for the sun, cap for the cold, gaiters.
- Down jacket (-30º).
- Trekking poles (highly recommended).
- Sleeping bag (-25°)
- Microfiber and thermal T-shirts.
- Sunglasses and a spare.
- Backpack 60 – 65 liters to carry your belongings.
- Waterproof jacket, waterproof pants, waterproof clothing.
- Water bottle (1 Lt.).
- Headlamp (with spare batteries).
- Personal first aid kit.
- Personal hygiene accessories.
- Photo cameras.
- Towel.
- Sandals / Crocs.
Costs
PARTICIPANTS |
PRICE PER PERSON |
1 Solo Climber |
3800 USD |
2 Climbers |
1900 USD |
3 Climbers |
1800 USD |
4 Climbers |
1600 USD |
5 Climbers |
1400 USD |
6 Climbers |
1300 USD |
- Rate expressed in U.S. dollars