CLIMB MOUNT HUASCARAN

CLIMB MOUNT HUASCARAN (6,755 m)

The Nevado Huascaran is an emblematic mountain of the Andes, the highest in Peru and the entire Cordillera Blanca, considered the highest tropical mountain in the world and the second highest mountain on the planet measured from the center of the earth after Chimborazo Volcano. The Nevado Huascarán has two summits: the north, at 6655 masl, and the south, at 6768 masl, the latter being the main summit and the most climbed during the season. The ascent is usually by the normal route and although it does not have great technical difficulties, it constitutes a great physical and mental challenge due to the route through its extensive glacier. Another route is the famous Escudo, an ice wall of approximately 900m in length, which is a challenge for mountaineers with experience in technical climbing.

The conditions of the route and the glacier are changing year after year, even during the climbing season, so you have to overcome difficult sections such as seracs, deep crevasses and avalanches during the ascent.

Huascaran, unlike the other highest mountains of the American continent, is the most complicated ascent, proof of this is that it has a chute from Camp I to Camp II with high probabilities of serac detachment along the way, as well as in its Shield route, in which the resistance in technical climbing is important.

If your objective is to climb Aconcagua or a 7000 in the Himalayas, we recommend climbing Huascaran, it will provide you with experience and acclimatization at altitude, ideal for future great challenges.

Technical Data

Max. Altitude:	6768 msnm – Cumbre Huascarán
Duration:	6 days / 5 nights
Physical Difficulty:	Moderate
Technical Difficulty:	Moderate
Season:	May – August
Location:	Cordillera Blanca
Average temperature:	Between 13 °C – 23 °C during the day / night -05 °C to -30 °C.

ITINERARY

Day 1

HUARAZ – PUEBLO DE MUSHO – CAMPO BASE HUASCARÁN

Departure from Huaraz at 07:00 am towards the north side of the Callejón de Huaylas to the village of Mancos from where the road turns to the village of Musho, from here begins the hike to the Huascarán Base Camp, camping area.

Lodging: Mountain Tents
Meals: Box Lunch, lunch and dinner
Transfer by car: 02 Hours
Hiking time: 4 hours approximately
Difference in altitude: from 3100 masl to 4200 masl (+1100)

Day 2

CAMPO BASE HUASCARÁN – CAMPO ALTO I

This day after breakfast we dismantle the camp, pack our things and all the mountain equipment for the porters to take care of the transfer. We will ascend through a rocky terrain until we reach the glacier, we will use the mountain equipment and we will rope up to start the ascent along the glacier overcoming crevasses that are easy to detect. The camp is in a safe area where we can enjoy splendid views of the different mountains that are around.

Lodging: Mountain Tents
Meals: Breakfast, Box Lunch and Dinner.
Hiking time: 6 to 7 hours approximately
Elevation gain: from 4200 masl to 5530 masl (+1330)

Day 3

CAMPO ALTO I – CAMPO ALTO II

The day starts very early, at 4:00 am, it is important to have everything ready to not waste time and leave early to overcome the Canaleta in the safest way. After breakfast from Camp I we ascend through an area known as the Canaleta and then on the left side to the column called the Garganta.

We overcome these sections and set up our Camp II (5950m) in a safe place. Camp II is a cold place and the wind is strong. In this camp we will enjoy the most impressive sunset in the entire Cordillera Blanca.

Lodging: Mountain tents
Meals: Breakfast, lunch and dinner
Hiking time: 4 to 5 hours approximately
Elevation gain: from 5530 masl to 6000 masl (+470)

Day 4

CAMPO ALTO II – CUMBRE HUASCARÁN – CAMPO ALTO II

This day we will have breakfast very early at 12:00 am and then we start to climb in zigzag with some steep sections, after climbing for 7 hours we will reach the south summit at 6768m, from the summit we will have an impressive view of the Cordillera Blanca, then back by the same route, we will do some rappels in difficult parts until we reach our camp (High Camp II), here we will rest to descend the next day to Camp I very early.

Lodging: Mountain Tents
Meals: Breakfast, Box Lunch, lunch and dinner.
Duration of the day: 10 to 12 hours approximately.
Elevation gain: from 6000 masl to 6768 masl (+768)

Day 5

CAMPO ALTO II – CAMPO BASE

We start the day very early in order to safely descend the Camp II gully area. Once we have passed this section we continue the descent to the base camp.

Lodging: Mountain Tents
Meals: Breakfast, Box Lunch, lunch and dinner.
Climbing time: 5 hours approximately
Elevation gain: from 6000 masl to 4200 masl (-1800)

Day 6

CAMPO BASE HUASCARÁN – PUEBLO DE MUSHO – HUARAZ

This day after breakfast we dismantle the camp, pack our things and all the mountain equipment to make our descent. Finally we arrive to the village of Musho where private transportation awaits us to take us to the city of Huaraz. End of the expedition.

Type of lodging: Mountain tents
Meals: Breakfast
Hiking time: 3 hours approximately
Elevation gain: from 4200 masl to 3100 masl (-1100)
Transfer by car: 02 hours back to Huaraz.

Our Service Includes

Private transportation
Certified cook
4 meals per day (breakfast, lunch, box lunch and dinner).
Horseman and donkeys for the transportation of the logistic camping equipment.
Porters for the transportation of the logistic camping equipment.
Personal climbing equipment (harness, helmet and crampons).
4-season double occupancy tent
Dining, cooking and toilet tent to base camp.
Cooking utensils and complete dining room.
First aid kit.
Boiled water to fill your bottle every day.
Tips to get to Huaraz.

Our Service Does Not Include

Air ticket to Lima and to the country of origin.
Entrance ticket to Huascaran National Park (50 USD p/p).
Personal climbing equipment (hiking boots and technical ice axes).
Personal porters.
Accident and rescue insurance.
Travel luggage and trip cancellation insurance.
Personal expenses.
Meals not mentioned in the itinerary
Hotel.
Costs generated by the abandonment of the expedition.
Sleeping and insulating mattress.
Extra days in hotels in case of early arrivals out of schedule.
Meals and drinks not mentioned in the itinerary.
Transfers out of schedule to Huaraz, in case of premature abandonment of the expedition.